Baby powder, adhesive tape, paper clips, glue, pins, thread, rubber bands, pencil, file, pliers, bees wax; the list of items found in an archer’s kit is as endless as the variety of items found in a house wife’s sewing basket. The simile does not end there as the bowman too is apparently unable to discard an item of tackle which has outlived its usefulness. Look in any tackle box and a goodly portion of the contents is made up of worn out tabs, old shooting gloves, outsized arrow nocks, discarded bow sights, and perhaps several bow strings from bows which have long since been retired or relegated to the attic. Even the expert archer is a pushover for any new type of bow that comes on the market.
Rarely does the novice appreciate the need of a tackle box, and it is seldom included in the items of tackle listed in his initial purchase. When the novice has been shooting for some time he learns that certain supplies must be at hand to make immediate repairs in the field. Broken arrow nocks must be replaced, serving renewed, or loose fletching reglued. Many things can happen which will terminate an afternoon’s pleasure unless the required materials are available for replacement or repair. In the early stages of the game, a friend’s tackle box will generally produce a needed item so that shooting can be continued. A few occasions demonstrate to the novice the importance of the repair kit and the spare parts contained in the tackle box. Any one who has arrived at the shooting field only to discover that some essential part of his tackle has been left at home, immediately concludes that a tackle box is a necessity and not a luxury.
The average retail price of a tackle box is around twenty dollars. This figure is apparently a prohibitive price or the archer just naturally enjoys building his own tackle box.
What ever the reason, a casual examination of the tackle boxes brought to any shoot will show a wide variation in design and workmanship. Many of the boxes reflect the individual owner’s ideas on arrangement and accessibility of tackle. Some of the boxes are end-opening and others have a hinged top. Arrow racks may be fixed or removable and contain from one to four dozen arrows. Each tackle box is provided with a compartment which contains the repair kit and the necessary accessories. I have seen custom made boxes that served as a seat for the shooter วิจารณ์มวย while he waited his turn on the shooting line. If your hobbies include wood working, you will probably have chosen the type of tackle box that you believe will best meet your requirements, and need no further advise on its construction. Those of us who do not own a variety of wood working tools would be wise to undertake the task of constructing a tackle box of simple design which can be readily cut out and assembled with a minimum of hand tools.
The tackle box shown in the illustration, Figure 43, is rectangular in shape with an overall length of thirty inches, a width of ten inches, and a height of six and seven-eighths inches. A single partition separates the interior of the tackle box into two compartments. The larger compartment is six inches in width and provides space for the arrow rack which holds two dozen arrows. The remaining compartment provides ample space for ground and belt quivers, shooting glove, tabs, spares, and repair kit.
The only tools necessary to construct this tackle box are a saw, hammer, carpenter’s square, a brace or hand drill, and a yard stick which you can borrow from the family sewing room. The hand drill or brace is needed for the construction of the arrow rack. Two bits will be required, one bit should be 11/32 of an inch in diameter in order to drill the series of holes required for the dowels, and the other bit should have a diameter of 5/16 of an inch to drill the series of holes required for the arrows. If you are using wooden arrows, check their diameter to make certain that the dimension given is large enough to permit the entry of the arrow. If you have a friend who has a drill-press, lay out the work and take it to him. He will drill the required number of holes in a matter of a few minutes. A bottle of furniture glue, a one-quarter pound box of one inch by seventeen wire brads, a ten cent assortment of small brads and nails that can be purchased at the dime store, and a sheet of number one-half flint paper completes the list of materials. In the event you choose to use wood screws instead of wire brads to assemble the box, you will need in addition to your other tools a screw driver and a small bit to drill pilot holes for the screws to prevent splitting the wood. Wood screws are preferred because they have better holding qualities than the wire brads, although more labor is necessary to assemble the box.
The case may be constructed of plywood. If you choose to use plywood, ignore the bill of material accompanying the plan in Figure 43 and use three-eighths inch material for the sides and one-quarter inch material for the top and bottom. Instead of plywood, I selected an easily worked wood such as clear Ponderosa pine. If the planing mill does not carry three-eighths inch finished stock a full ten inches in width, ask them to split a one inch by twelve inch board, seven feet and six inches in length, in half on their band saw; and then dress each half to exactly three-eighths of an inch in thickness by ten inches in width. I had this done and although the boards will cup slightly because of the changes in the internal stresses in the lumber, the boards will not split or crack if the work is completed within a reasonable length of time. The finished lumber should cost about $4.00. Lay out all cuts carefully as you do not have material to waste. Check your measurements and the work frequently in order to avoid mistakes. Note carefully that the illustration indicates that the top and bottom of the box are of different dimensions. The bottom fits inside the sides, while the top of the box which forms part of the lid covers the sides.